![]() ![]() I also do not know anything about other guiding belay devices, such as the Petzl Reverso these too should be tested.įurthermore, if anybody has any suggestions for how to increase safety with thin ropes, please comment. One possibility is that my specific ATC is worn from years of use, and thus the minimum rope diameter safely useable in guide mode has increased since it was purchased, but it is only a few years old and has a common amount of wear.īottom line: If youre belaying in guide-mode with double or twin ropes, best keep the diameter at 8.0 mm or above, but Im just pulling that number out of nowhere. Thus, I argue that this was proper use of the gear, and warn of this potential safety issue. Of course, 7.8 mm is towards the thinnest dynamic rope available, but the technical specifications for the Black Diamond ATC Guide indicate that the minimal rope diameter for safe use is 7.7 mm. Figure 8 Follow through graphic based on graphics from Gym Climbing, John Long, Chockstone Press, 1994. ATC graphic- redrawn from Black Diamond instructions Figure 8 Follow through description adapted from Gym Climbing, John Long, Chockstone Press, 1994. Nevertheless, this was a fairly scary experience, since I was unsure what was going to happen. Information on ATC use from Black Diamond product information. Fortunately, the slippage was minimal, and simply pulling hard on the brake strand was enough, combined with the friction between the ropes, to halt downward digression. I tried to brake the device, but this is actually difficult and awkward, since the brake direction in guide-mode would be into the wall. My follower fell, and instead of the climbing strands cinching down on top of the belay strands, they fell next to the belay strands in the cage of the ATC, and began to slip, slowly lowering the climber. We were climbing on two 7.8 mm half ropes. I was recently belaying a follower from above using a Black Diamond ATC Guide in guide mode. spec 5 price guide 1989 ford mustang vintage owners manual user reference. Here I report a failure of this auto-locking feature when used with thin ropes. This is why we 1968 Ford Mustang Wheel fitment guide Find out what wheels and. It works because the device is oriented such that the climbing strands cinch down on the belay strands when loaded, halting downward movement. ![]() One excellent feature of guide mode is that the ATC acts as an auto-locking belay device. ![]() When belaying a follower from above, one can easily belay off an anchor, rather than the body, by using "guide mode", increasing safety and comfort. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a near-essential, ever-popular piece of gear designed for multi-pitch rock climbing. ![]()
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